Directions For Making Glass Hive

Categories: BREEDING.
Bee Keeping: Mysteries Of Bee-keeping Explained

My method of making them is as follows: The top is like those for other

hives, fifteen inches square, adapted to boxes and cover. This hive we

want to be as profitable as any, giving us surplus honey, and swarms

like others. Four posts are then got out, two inches square, and

thirteen in length; care should be taken to have the ends perfectly

square.



A frame is then to be made, just fourteen inches square outside, for

the bottom; the pieces are one inch thick, by two in width, halved

together at the corners. A guage-mark is then made around the under

side of the top, half an inch from the edge, a post is then set inside

of each corner of this mark, and thoroughly nailed, the bottom is

nailed on with the posts even with the outside corners. Four pieces an

inch thick, and an inch and a half wide, are fitted between the posts,

even with the guage-mark on the top. Sixteen strips, about one quarter

by half an inch, are got out, eight to be ten, and eight twelve inches

long.



A gauge-mark one inch from posts, bottom, &c., is the place to nail

these strips; very small nails or tacks will hold them. The panes of

glass are to rest against them, which are held in their places by small

pieces of tin, or brads. The doors are the size of the glass, 10x12,

about three-fourths of an inch thick; these doors are cut a little too

short, and the pieces, to prevent warping, are nailed on the ends;

these are hung to a post on one side, and secured by a button on the

other. On two opposite sides inside the posts, half way up, two strips,

half an inch by three quarters, are nailed, with holes in them for the

cross-sticks; one way is enough if you have guide-combs for a start,

like those recommended for boxes, so that the sheets will be at right

angles with them; otherwise, let the sticks cross both ways, about

three each way will be needed, as the glass at the edges is not so good

a support as wood.



The cap can be made of half inch boards; the top to project over like

the hive, or let it be a little more than half an inch, it will admit a

heavier moulding, which should surround it here, as well as at the top

of the hive, or if it is prefered, dentals can be used, and look

equally well--when no ornament is wanted, omit it. But painting seems

necessary for such hives, to prevent warping, and the swelling of the

doors in wet weather; these want to open and shut without rubbing or

sticking, otherwise we disturb the bees every time a door is stirred.

Putty should not be used to hold the glass, as the bees in the course

of a few years will cover it with propolis; it is then necessary to

take it out, and scrape, clean, and return it, when, if fastened with

putty, it would be difficult; cold weather is the time for this

operation. I am aware that a hive can be more substantially made than

the one here described; but I have endeavored to make one as cheap as

possible, and if properly made, will answer. The cost will be much less

than many patents, and the satisfaction much more, at least, with many.

When our hive contains a swarm of bees, and they are thoroughly in

operation, we must not let them pass out at the bottom on every side,

as they are frequently allowed to do from other hives; because, should

one come out a little excited in consequence of a slight jar,

accidentally given the hive, on opening the door or some other way, and

should find our face within a foot of their house, peering in the

window among their works, it would be very likely to give us _a gentle

hint_ that it was a mark of low breeding, that we were not wanted there

at all, and that it was none of our business what they were doing. To

prevent this as far as possible, a bottom-board, somewhat different

from the common one, is needed. Four posts of chestnut or other lasting

wood, about two inches square, are driven into the earth in the form of

a square, far enough apart to come under the corners of the

bottom-board, (fifteen inches,) and high enough for convenience when

looking into the hive. The ends of these posts are to be perfectly

level, and to which the bottom is to be nailed fast. As the hive is to

sit perfectly close to the board, a passage must be made through it, as

well as means for ventilation in hot weather, without raising the hive

for that purpose. It requires a board about fifteen inches square,

planed smooth, the ends clamped to prevent warping or splitting; a

portion of the centre is taken out, say six inches by ten, and wire

cloth nailed over, four-ounce tacks will hold it, fasten it just enough

to keep the bees from getting through; very likely it will want to be

taken off occasionally and cleaned from the propolis that will be

spread over it. It is easiest done in freezing weather.



Take an edge in each hand, and rock the wires a few times out of

square, and it will readily crumble and fall out. In warm weather it

must be scalded or burnt off. To close this space, a moving slide is

fixed in grooves under-side, fastened to the posts or board. The slide

is to be moved in accordance with the weather, when cold, close it,

when hot, withdraw it, and give the bees as much air as possible,

without raising the hive, the whole of such space is as much

ventilation as ordinary hives raised an inch. (Wire cloth is needed for

other purposes, it is best to procure some, even at considerable

trouble and expense.) On the side of the board intended for the front,

two inches from the edge of the wire cloth, a passage is cut for the

bees, three-eights of an inch wide, by eleven in length. "But how is

the bees to get to this place, so inconvenient, something is needed to

assist them?" Certainly, Sir; an alighting board, eleven inches wide,

and about two feet long, (not planed), is placed at an angle of

forty-five degrees, between the two front posts of your stand, the

upper end passing under the bottom, far enough back; to be just even

with the back-side of the passage for the bees. The bees alight on this

board, and walk up into the hive without difficulty. When the bees are

at work pretty freely, and a door of this hive is opened, those that

are about departing will be very likely to get on the glass, instead of

through the opening at the bottom; seeing the light through the glass,

they endeavor to escape by the nearest route. When so many gather here

as to prevent a good view, and you wish to observe further, shut the

door a moment and they will leave through their own passage, when you

can open your door again, for a short time. After the hive is filled

with combs, the number attracted to the glass on opening a door will be

much less.



The plate on the preceding page represents a glass hive, cover, and

stand. The common hive can be made equally ornamental, if you choose;

this kind of stand is unnecessary for them. I use such as are

recommended on page 138.